When can chicks go outside or move to the coop?

So you’ve got yourself a brooder full of scraggly teenage chicks. They’re starting to get a little antsy, and you’re beginning to wonder when it’s time to move them outside. 

Even if you’ve raised chicks several times, introducing them to your flock can still feel overwhelming each time. We hope to provide information that will make it a little easier! 

When can chicks go outside or move to the coop?

Like many aspects of chicken keeping, introducing chicks to the outdoors isn’t an exact science, but there are some basic signs that we recommend you go by. 

• For starters, one sure sign that it’s about time to move your chicks outside is that they are fully feathered, meaning they have no more baby fluff. This happens at around 6 to 8 weeks of age. You may have a few chicks that take longer to lose their fluff. Wait for them to get their adult feathers too before moving everyone outside!
  
  
• One very important thing to check before allowing your chicks outside is the temperature. Even if they are fully feathered, young birds are more sensitive to the cold. Do not leave your fully feathered chicks outside if temperatures drop below 50°F. If you are unsure about the temperature, wait a few extra days to make sure it is consistently above 50°F. Your chicks may be a little bored, but that’s a much better alternative to freezing. 
  
  
• Chicks who are ready to move outdoors should be independent and active. They generally don’t huddle together much or stay under the heat source in their brooder. 

A few things to remember: 

• When your chicks are ready to move to their new coop, first confirm that it is completely predator proof. This means using hardware cloth for the walls and top of the run, preferably extending 12 inches underground or outwards at the bottom to prevent predators such as skunks or coyotes from digging their way in. Be sure that latches and doors close fully and there are no other possible entrances for predators. 
  
  
• When preparing chicks to move outdoors, you may want to acclimate them to the relatively cooler temperatures. If you’re not sure about the nighttime temperatures yet, it’s alright to bring them back into their brooder at night for the first few days. 

How do I integrate chicks with my pre-existing flock? 

Before beginning the process of introducing your chicks to your adult flock, here are two things you must know: 

• NEVER put chicks who are not fully feathered with your mature flock. The full-grown birds will perceive the babies as a threat and can kill them very quickly. Wait until your chicks are completely rid of their baby fluff to even begin the process of introducing them to your flock. 
  
  
• NEVER just lock your newer chickens in with your adult flock and leave them unsupervised. The pecking order is very real, and young birds have a high chance of being seriously injured or killed if they are not introduced correctly and under your watchful eye.  

With that being said, here are a few ways to integrate your new birds to the flock! Every flock is a little different and some techniques will work better than others. Don’t be afraid to try a combination of some or all of them!

• Many homesteaders introduce new flock members by using the “look, but don’t touch” method. The idea is to temporarily put your new birds where they can easily be seen and heard by your flock without actually being able to touch them. This can be accomplished by putting a wire dog crate or smaller coop inside or next to the main coop, or adding a chicken wire partition in the coop. 

Let the new birds live in the separated area for one or two weeks, depending on how well it seems like your flock is accepting them. Then, under close supervision, allow them to mingle with your flock. During this time, create “safe zones” in the coop for the newbies to hide, such as boards leaned against the wall or some roosts for them to jump on. Make sure all your birds have plenty of space. 

It’s normal for your older flock members to peck or chase the new birds during this time. This is how chickens establish their flock hierarchy (AKA the “pecking order”). If you notice that one chicken is being exceptionally feisty (repeatedly attacking or drawing blood), temporarily remove them and allow the flock to adjust without them. Add them back in when it feels like things have calmed down. 

• If you have a fairly docile flock, you may be able to simply sneak the new members in by placing them on the roosts in the coop during the night. Ideally, your older flock members will wake up the next morning and assume the young ones have always been there! This method is much more unpredictable than gradual integration, so be sure to go out and check on your flock first thing in the morning if you opt to try this. Remember chickens get up with the sun! 
  
  
• Some flocks also respond well to the free-range method, where new members are introduced while everyone is out of the coop. This can help distract your established flock from attacking the new birds or trapping them in corners of the coop. However, sometimes this gives the flock a little too much space, and younger members can stay separated from the older ones, making integration difficult. 

Tips: 

1. Some chicken owners recommend waiting to integrate until the fully-feathered chicks start making grown-up noises, meaning they lose their high-pitched baby cheeps and talk like mature chickens. This might help your established flock recognize them as equals and accept them more quickly. 
   
   
2. Adding all your fully-feathered chicks at once helps reduce stress as they have each other for support, reducing stress. 
   
   
3. While the two flocks are getting used to each other, it’s helpful to add some extra food and water dishes throughout the coop to avoid squabbles over a single source. 

Best of luck as you move your feathered friends to the great outdoors and introduce them to their new flock family!

For more information on bringing home chicks or how many chickens to keep, check out our other blog posts.